If you look beyond the Black Sand Beaches and the volcano, oh ya and the world-class golf and expensive hotels there is something almost transcending to this place with a culture that shaped Hawai’i to what it is today and the influence of sugar cane, and coffee for close to the last 200 years.
Driving in one of the island’s eight unique districts and 13 different climate regions of this island and getting lost, and I do recommend it, you can find something that shows that this island is still trapped in its old ways with the new world taking over in an explosion like Peli has done over the years reshaping this island to what we see today.
History of the island
The history of Hawai’i is literally in the stars.
These first Hawaiians came over from the Marquesas Islands around 300 - 500AD by outriggers and where used the stars as navigation to find Hawai’i. After the built the first heiau (Temple) for worship.
The second wave of Polynesian migrations took place circa 1000-1300 AD with voyagers traveling back and forth between Hawai`i and the Society Islands. Tahitian explorers had arrived and not only conquered the Marquesasians but also enslaved them. The Tahitian priest Pa'ao introduced new religious forms and social structures and the most important one was the "kahuna Nui" or high-priest line which initiated a ruling king for each island. From Tahiti, Pa'ao brought Pili who was the father of the royal line leading to Kamehameha I. Also around this time, human sacrifice was established as an element of religious observance, restrictions of the kapu increased, and Hawaiian society became more stratified and rigid. Consensual rule through `aha councils, or councils of elders and experts, gave way to the rule of ali`i, the chiefly class whose position was confirmed by lineage. The population of the islands increased rapidly and chiefs undertook the building of large public works projects such as fish ponds, taro terraces, irrigation systems, and heiau (temples). After 1300, long-distance voyaging ceased, and Hawaiian culture and society continued to develop along its unique path.
Social classes started to emerge and the Hawaiian culture begins to form. During this time Hawaiians ate mostly vegetables and poi and supplemented their diet with fish and over 30 varieties of native limu (seaweeds). Noni and kukui were the most important herbs used to treat many different ailments.
On his third voyage into the Pacific, the great explorer Captain James Cook, the British commander of HMS Resolution and HMS Discovery, on January 18, 1778, found Oahu and Kauai. The Hawaiians thought of him as the reincarnation of Lono, one of their principal gods.
Cook named Hawaii the Sandwich Islands in honor of the Earl of Sandwich. He returned to Hawaii a year later and dropped anchor in Kealakekua Bay on the Big Island. Captain Cook was slain here on February 13, 1779 chasing after a stolen rowboat. Because of European contact, contagious diseases such as cholera, measles, and gonorrhea, decimated the Hawaiian population. The population was estimated at between 250,000 to 1 million when Captain Cook sailed into Kealakekua in 1779. By 1848 Hawaiians numbered 88,000
Kona
A District where the old meets the new
Kailua is considered the heart of the historical area of the big island. It is home to Captain Cooks Monument, The location of the great explores death, Hulihe’e Palace, The former home of Hawaiian royalty, and to Me the most important location Pu’uhonua o Honaunau, or Place of Refuge. It is now a historical park but was the former site where Hawaiians who broke a Kapu (ancient law) could go to avoid death. It was used by the Hawaiians till the early 19th century.
Each one of these locations still stands as a true testament to the rich and deep culture this area had to the accent Hawaiians and has made this island what it is today. They show how perseverance and a deep understanding of one’s culture and tradition can continue to educate the future along with staving to preserve the past.
N. & S. Kohala
A District where Kings, were born and, ruled
Kohala is considered to be the birthplace of King Kamehameha the Great. The Kohala District comprises the northernmost land area of the island of Hawai'i. It is important for many reasons, not the least of which is that it was the birthplace and ancestral chiefdom of Kamehameha, born about 1753 near Mo'okini temple at Kokoiki, 'Upolu Point. Mo'okini Heiau is one of the most famous and best-preserved temples in Hawai'i, traditionally reported to have been built by the Polynesian priest Pa'ao. The areas of Kawaihae and Waimea were the site of continual battles between the armies of the six kingdoms of the island to enlarge their domains. In addition, fleets from Maui that had fought in Kona, returning home, would land at various places along the Kohala coast to wreak havoc, often cutting down the coconut trees at Kawaihae as a show of defiance to the island chiefs. The ancient temple of Mailekini at Kawaihae was a prize held by the South Kohala chief.
To get there, you go to the junction of Kawaihae Road and Highway 19, turn east to explore the cool scenic pasturelands of Waimea. In sharp contrast to the lava landscapes along the Kohala Coast, this upcountry town is home to the paniolo (Hawaiian cowboy). Continue on to the charming town of Hawi. On your way to Kapaau, home of the original Kamehameha Statue, you'll find dramatic Pololu Valley at the end of the road. If returning back to the Kohala Coast, take Akoni Pule highway (coastal) and stop off at Lapakahi State Park, an old fishing village.
Hamakua
A District of cowboys and Horses who look to the heavens
The term Hāmākua Coast is used loosely to describe the region between Hilo and Waipiʻo, although the modern Hāmākua zoning district begins north of Laupāhoehoe and west of ʻŌʻōkala. The dominating geographic feature in Hāmākua is the volcanic mountain Mauna Kea. The district stretches south through the central plateau to the summit of Mauna Loa. Hāmākua was one of the six traditional districts of the island in ancient Hawaii (known as moku)
It is home to the world-famous Parker Ranch and the saddle road. But behind the ranch and the road, the cuts through is center of the island is a culture that moves at a different pace than the rest of the island.
The major city up here is Waimea (know by locals by Kamuela) where Peter Merriman created his landmark restaurant and was one of the first major chefs to start the farm-to-table movement.
Kamuela is also home to the Keak Observatory headquarters and holds regular lectures and events to educate the public on the solar system.
Outside of Kamuela on the way to Hilo is another city of Honoka’a, and if you do go ( I highly recommend) to the end of the town and road you will get to the Waipi’o Valley. It is sacred and was the boyhood home of King Kamehameha I, and an important center for political and religious life in Hawaii. Not only is "The Valley of the Kings" an important site for Hawaiian history and culture. This fertile valley is about one mile across and over five miles deep and surrounded by cliffs up to 2000-feet high. Waipio Valley was once the home of thousands of Native Hawaiians. Today, there are less than 100 residents living amongst the waterfalls, taro fields, and rivers permeating the valley. This is also home to the island of Hawaii's tallest waterfall, Hiilawe Falls cascades down 1,300 feet in the back of Waipio.
It is accessible to go down but only by four-wheel drive and you are not permitted to go into the valley without permission as it is all private property, but the beach is open to anyone.
Going to the other side of the island to see the volcano is a must, but how to get there? To me, the best is called Saddle Road (HWY 200). You can get this road by going through Kamuela or Waikoloa Village from the Kohala side (fastest and most direct way). Going on this road you can really experience and see the vast climate and habitat variations that this island has to offer from desert to rain forest and depending on the time of year you can even see or experience snow (yes snow in Hawai’i, on the top on Mauna Kea and sometimes Mauna Loa)
The city of Hilo is off the saddle road and turning left. The city is to some is the heart of the island, it gets afternoon rain almost daily and the buildings still show the times when the city was a major sugar industry with the people still comprising of the native Hawaiians, Japanese, Filipino, Portuguese, Chinese, and Caucasian.